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You land at Sarajevo International Airport (SJJ), grab your bag off the carousel, and step outside. The air smells like pine and grilled meat. A taxi driver waves at you, but you walk past him — because your car is waiting in the lot. Ten minutes after touchdown, you’re on the M18 heading toward the […]

Sarajevo is a city best understood from behind a steering wheel. Not because it’s huge — you can walk the old town in an afternoon — but because it spills across a long, narrow valley with neighbourhoods stacked up the hillsides like drawers in a cabinet. The tram runs east to west along the valley […]